Greetings! I'm Jello. ( ´ ▽ ` )ノ

Will post own creations from time to time, but mostly just reblog fandom stuff and whatever else I like~

Forever in love with Hakkenden and Natsume Yuujinchou ლ=//w//=ლ
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So my historical costuming resources list from 2011 was less than a page long- I’m not saying that I’ve learned a lot in the past three years, but this list is now sitting pretty at a solid nine pages.  Whew.  And people wonder why I want to redo this damn series.

This list is by no means an exhaustive one- it’s a list of (primarily western) historical fashion resources, both online and offline, that is limited to what I know, own, or use!  It’s a work in progress, and I’m definitely hoping to expand on it as my knowledge base grows.  First things first, how about a little:


  • Read, and read about more than just costuming.  Allowing yourself to understand the cultural and historical context surrounding the clothing of a particular region/period can be invaluable in sussing out good costume design.  Looking at pictures is all well and good, but reading about societal pressures, about construction techniques, daily routines, local symbolism, whatever else will really help you understand the rhyme and reason behind costuming from any given context.
  • Expand your costume vocabulary.  When you’re delving into a new topic, costuming or otherwise, picking up new terminology is essential to proper understanding and furthering your research.  Write down or take note of terms as you come across them- google them, look up synonyms, and use those words as a jumping off point for more research.  What’s a wire rebato?  How does it differ from a supportasse?  Inquiring minds want to know.
  • Double-check your sources.  Especially on the internet, and double especially on tumblr.  I love it, but it’s ground zero for rapidly spreading misinformation.  Books are usually your safest bet, but also take into account their date of publication, who’s writing them- an author’s biases can severely mangle their original source material.
  • Don’t be afraid to ask for help.  Do everything you can to find out information on your own, but feel free to reach out to people with more specialized areas of knowledge for help!  Be considerate about it- the people you’re asking are busy as well- but a specific line of questioning that proves you’re passionate and that you respect their subject matter expertise can work wonders.

Okay, onto the links!


It’s impossible to overstate the importance of getting off the internet and looking into books!  God bless the internet, but books are (generally, this isn’t a rule) better-researched and better-sourced.  Bibliographies also mean each individual books can be a jumping off point for further research, which is always a fantastic thing.

Remember- owning books is awesome and you should absolutely assemble your own library of resources, but LIBRARIES.  Libraries.  You’ll be surprised to find what books are available to you at your local library.


Patterns fo Fashion books
Detailed, hand-drawn diagrams of historical fashion, inside and out.  Pretty amazing stuff.

Fashion in Detail books
Not what you want if you’re looking for photos of entire costumes- note the “in detail” bit up there.  Just a beautiful series, and great reference for all the little things you might miss otherwise.  The V&A has an amazing fashion collection, and it’s great to see them share it with the world.


Read More


I’ve been getting a lot of asks lately about the brushes and textures I use in my work, so here’s a BIG FAT REFERENCE POST for those of you who were curious! Bear in mind that I’m really lazy and don’t know what half the settings do, so don’t be afraid to experiment to figure out what works best for you :>



I use the pencil tool with SAI’s native paper texture both for sketching and for applying opaque color with no blending. Lower opacities give it the feel of different pencil hardnesses, while full opacity makes it more like a palette knife, laying down hard-edged, heavy color for detail work or eventual blending with other brushes.

Ink Pen

Mostly made this because I’m lazy and I didn’t want to have to keep turning my textures off/opacity up when I wanted to ink something (even though I don’t do it very often), or lay down flat colors. I find the line quality to be much more crisp than Photoshop, and you can manually adjust in-program stabilization to help smooth out hand wobbles.

Round Brush

The plain ol’ brush tool acts as sort of an in-between for me in terms of brush flow. It’s heavier than my usual workhorse brush, for faster color application and rough blending, but not as heavy as the pencil tool, which has no blending at all. I like to use the canvas texture on this brush to help break up the unnatural smoothness that usually accompanies digital brushes, but it works just fine without.

Flat Brush

A brush tool set to flat bristle is by far my favorite to paint with. I don’t use any textures with it because I think the shape of the brush provides enough of that by itself. I use it for everything from rough washes to more refined shaping and polish. It’s just GREAT.


Best used for smooth blending, washes, gradients, and smoky atmospheric effects.


Basically a grittier version of the watercolor tool, because too much smoothness weird me out. Good for clouds and fog, as the name suggests, or just less boring gradient fills.


To further stave off the artificially smooth look of digital painting, I almost always overlay some sort of paper texture, and it’s almost always this one, which I scanned and edited myself. You’re all welcome to use it, no permission required!

Using overlays in SAI is just as easy as using them in Photoshop. Just paste the texture into its own layer above everything you want it to apply to, and change the layer mode to Overlay. That’s it!

Want a more prominent texture? Up the contrast. Something more subtle? Lower the contrast or reduce the layer opacity. You can also use a tinted overlay to adjust the overall palette and bring a little more color unity to an otherwise disparate piece! Just be aware that too much texture can hurt the readability of the work beneath it, so I’d err on the side of subtlety.

Hope that helps!



I’ve been asked a lot about how I draw hoods, mostly Talon’s hood, so I hope this helps a little? Just a pretty basic thing but hey there ya go

Hoods are pretty cool, they usually have a lot of variety in how they can look (and sometimes people even wear two hoods at once) so just get creative with it and have fun



!! Woah guys! Pixelovely’s new tools are finally out, one for hands & feet, and one for faces!

There’s now 429 photos of hands & feet, and 314 photos of faces. Dang!!

This is super cool news and I certainly can’t wait to start using them haha

I’ve got tons of tutorials on hands, feet and faces in their relevant tags, so be sure to check those out too nwn

Check out Pixelovely! I usually start my drawing day by warming up with the figure drawing practice sessions.


Neckline Types

More Visual Glossaries (for Her): Backpacks / Bags / HatsBelt knots / CoatsCollarsDarts / Dress Silhouettes / Eyeglass frames / Hangers / Harem PantsHeelsNail shapes / NecklacesNecklinesPuffy SleevesShoes / ShortsSilhouettes / SkirtsTartans / Vintage Hats / Waistlines / Wool



A coolio fuck-ton of female arm angle references.

Credit goes to melsrefs (on tumblr). You should flood Mel’s inbox with fanmail so s/he’ll make more of these epic references.


Fellow cosplayers! I purchased over $100 worth of body paints on which arrived today and I am doing a test to see how well they go on and endure throughout the day. I thought I would share my test with you since examples and reviews on these brands are quite scarce.

I TESTED: Wolfe (Grey, Pink, White), Tag (Lilac, Yellow, Teal, Light Blue), Mehron Paradise (Mango), Diamond FX (Lavender), Tulip (Pink)

Sealed with: Pro Face Neutral Setting Powder + Ben Nye Final Seal

WOLFE: The 45g pallets are $11 and the 30g are $8 so slightly more expensive than the others but if you can get what you need in their colour selection it is top shelf. Wolfe went on with the least water and gave a very full coverage, it is also super durable initially, you can rub it before sealing with no rub off, though I always suggest sealing. Mixing was simple and smooth, the resulting colours where perfect for the characters I’ll be using them for (Princess Bubblegum and Marceline) though I know a lot of Homestuck cosplayers would love the resulting grey as well! I also love how the medium size pots stack and twist into each other for better storage.

TAG: I purchased these based on 1 brief review and their impressive selection of colours and I must say I am super glad I went with my gut on this one. Great price, I got them on sale for $6.75, reg $8.25 which is pretty un-beatable for paint this quality. The colours went on with good opacity (a bit lower than Wolfe and Mehron but not too noticeably) and not very much water, also rubbed after drying with no rub off (again, always seal). Their quality is great and colour selection is wonderful. The colours I got where perfect as is for the characters I got them for (light blue for Maya from Borderlands,lilac for LSP, yellow for Lemongrab, teal for BMO. 

MEHRON PARADISE: Got this on sale for $6.75, reg $8, good price wise. Smells DELICIOUS! I love coconuts so this was a really neat little addition, even after powdering and sealing with a very minty smelling seal it smells like coconut butter or sunscreen. High quality, the colour went on nearly as thick as the Wolfe, not a ton of water needed to activate. The mango colour is exactly what I needed for Flame Princess from Adventure Time!

DIAMOND FX: These are $7.25 each so regular price is a bit lower than the others, if you get it on sale it could be a great value.TheLavender I got goes on EXACTLY the same colour as the TAG in Violet. The only difference I see from this test is the Diamond FX looks to go on slightly less opaque. Between the 2 I will be using the TAG first but it isn’t at all a bad fall-back option.

TULIP: I got these at Michaels craft store and have had them for a long time now in teal (not in this test) and this pink, the teal really stained something hard. It doesn’t show very well in the photos but it doesn’t go on the smoothest, slightly texturey and reptile-ish but could definately work in a pinch. I wouldn’t really recommend this unless you can’t get the others and it’s this or snazaroo as it does go on with better skin coverage and isn’t as eager to rub off. 

KRYOLAN: I have used Kryolan Aquacolor in the past (not in this test) and I honsetly prefer all of these (except the tulip) over the Kryolan which went on fairly thin and liked to rub off on things and just be generally blotchy with the slightest hint of sweat.

OVERALL: These have all held up very well over the past 6 hours of wear, no noticable change in any. I’ve even been scratching my arm and rubbing them on my desk as I type and draw. I am mostly in love with the Wolfe paints, they went on with the best opacity and I love the stackability, I just wish they had a larger colour selection. My second pick is the TAG, lots of colours and great quality over all. Mehron is a close 3rd and I would love to try more of their paints. Diamond FX is 4th choice, a bit cheaper regular price but not as highly pigmented as the others. Tulip is 5th, not the best but passes in a pinch.


it comes in handy



Hats and How to Draw Them by glazedmacguffin

I’m gonna tag this for a fandom. Damn hats are hard to draw! >:(

REBLOG | Posted 1 month ago With 12,620 notes
tags: #ref #queue



I just realized that I hit over 1k followers ; u ;/ I have no idea where you guys came from, but thank you so much ♥ fjdksfs!

Been asked numerous times over the past few months to make a tutorial on how I color and stuff. I have never really made one before so yeah fjksdfs;;;

You do not have to rely on my info if you find it confusing or pointless ; 3 ; ♥ If you have any other questions, please let me know!

Reminder: Pony Raffle



For the ones who asked for arm tutorials :)



text tricks; click the <html> button in the corner


     <small> makes things smaller. the more <small> you use, the smaller it gets.

     <big> same applies with big

     <sup> makes things go up up up up

     <sub> makes things go down down down down 

     <u> makes underlines (only seen on blog pages)

     go here for spacy  wacey  words

     z̗̟̻̫̼͓͂ã̤̬͓̼͓̔̐̇͑ͩ̀l̯̜̰͐̒ͪg̺͎͈̍o͍̫̬̤ͭ ͍ͩͤ̈́a͇̘͙̼̠̪̣ͨ̾̍̿k̼ͣa̯̮͇̟ͫ̑ͤͭ̔̊ͣͅ ͌͆s̮̫̼͖̫̖̐̆ͦc̎ͪÃ͔̬̘̫̣̮̮̂̉͗R̈́Ẏ̖͕͚̱̩̠ ̫̝͎̞͖̄T͔̎͊̍ͪ̔E̲̞̽ͨ̿̑X͓̜̩̖̜ͦ͊T̹̥̰̊̎͂ found here

     here and here for ƒαηcу/սռﻨƈօժε †εχ† (☞ here for unicode symbols ☜)

     upside down text? oɯəlqoɹd ou

of course, those are the basics. <code> makes things monospaced and <pre> puts your text in a grey box.



     japanese emoticons? (◕△◕✿) 

     things that look like japanese emoticons but are cute lil gifs?

     anything else you need help with? a blog full of tutorials just for all the sweeties out there!!!!!


There’s always space for yet another armor tutorial, right? (ノ´ヮ´)ノ*:・゚✧

Note that the armor I drew would be worn around 15th century, the more into the future the less and less components knight’s armor had (i. e. in early 14th century instead of greaves a knight would wear long boots only; in 12th century knights didn’t wear plate breastplates and instead a chain mail only). Also the design of armor pattern changed by year and was different in every country (i.e. in eastern Europe armors, while still looking European, were heavily influenced by Turkey). so just make sure you always do research whenever drawing an armor. And one more thing to keep in mind is that armors were expensive, knights wearing a full plate armor weren’t an often sight.

Some links that may be useful:


OMIOGSH so many people asked for hair BUT HAIR IS ONE OF THE PARTS WHERE U CAN RELLY JUST DO ANYTHING U WNAT so yeahhh JUST REMBER to try and use quick gestures to capture the flow of hair!! 


I did some anatomy. Full view to see my tiny, tiny notes.